哥本哈根的周末


乘四個小時火車南下,越過連接瑞典及丹麥的大橋,遠處海天一線間有幾十座巨型風力發電機,白色三頁扇在迎風轉著,蔚藍天空下海鷗在遨翔,旅人心情豁然開朗。

然後火車途經設計和服務都備受讚賞的哥本哈根Kastrup 國際機場,許多人都在這個北歐大驛站起飛。十分鐘之後,火車駛入哥本哈根巿中心火車總站,甫下車一股清澈冷空氣立即透進胸膛。

每到新城市,我必看兩處地方,一是街巿、一是咖啡館。要當地人去買家常菜和喝咖啡的一類,要一般旅遊書和官方網頁沒推介那種。如何找到這些目的地?通常都是沒按地圖閒逛時碰上的,或者搜索由本地人撰寫的網頁貼士,spotted by the locals 那類總有收穫。

哥本哈根面積很大,最有趣的區域、最別緻的設計小店都不在巿中心遊客熱愛的購物長街。我愛這城多元化、友善有型的丹麥人,出色的設計更不在話下,餐館家品傢俱時裝皮具以至玩具,都滿載北歐簡潔明亮的風格。天天生活在高質素設計的大環境下,丹麥人的觸角和品味也就培養出來。

我們漫步城中大街小巷向Nørrebro 區進發,找尋全城最美味的班戥。小館在地牢,門外的舊單車上放了一束野花,在這個北國轉換冬令時間的周末跟夏天說再見。店前一排小桌椅空空的,推門入內卻另有天地。一室熱哄哄坐滿人,所有舊桌舊椅都不配搭地出奇家常溫暖,有年輕女子吃著丹麥著名的open sandwich 在聊天,有母親和孩子在吃午餐,有三五知己相約喝咖啡。牆上掛了多台老式收音機,下面是戲院的絨面舊座椅。這種二手傢俬拼湊成獨特格調的咖啡館,在北歐每個大城市都起碼有幾家,都份外受本地人愛戴。也總是這些地方,令過路人如我吃看得最開懷。


(圖片:Internet)

/ 刊登於2012-11-08 明報副刊Life & style  <Nordic Living> 專欄(逢周四刊出)。

6 thoughts on “哥本哈根的周末

  1. Kastrup Airport has to be the airport I frequented the most within one year… It sort of reminded me of Kai Tak. At the same time it is one of my most favourite airport in the world. HKIA is still standing firm as No. 1 in my heart though😀

  2. I visited Copenhagen (and Northern Europe) for the first time this Apr but I was too lazy to blog it. A few observations:

    1) Public toilets in Copenhagen (and Malmö and probably the whole Scandinavia) are mostly unisex
    2) It has the friendliest waitresses and the lousiest pickpocket I have ever met
    3) Sushi are in vogue
    4) Danish won’t jaywalk. They would keep waiting for the light even if there is no sign of any approaching cars within a mile. I talk to my Swede host he agreed and it is driving him nut.

    1. yes, public toilets in Swedish universities i visited are mostly unisex too. as a woman i do not quiet welcome the arrangement.

      i also met the nicest shop staff in Copenhagen too, not to mention being young and pretty at the same time. when it comes to pickpocket, guess i have been lucky.

      you are so right about the jaywalking! me and my girls could not wait for the green lamp, the whole road was empty so we just took off…. while other Danes obviously had no hurry. i also found that the green lamp time is really NOT long enough to cross a big wide road in the center.

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